Non-printed parts:
2x square alluminium profile (20x20mm)
nuts and bolts
arduino uno
lcd keypad shield
2.5mm jack male conector
miniEngine pcb
2x Arduino Stackable Header 8 pin
2x Arduino Stackable Header 6 pin
2x Resistor 470ohm
2x Resistor 10~20k
2x optocoupler 4n35
easydriver
nema 17 motor
belt
polley
2x 623 bearings
8x 608 bearings
2x endstops
heat sink
Printed parts:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:315348
You can't see them in the pic above, but the legs has been designed with 1mm gap to use washers making the movement smoother. You can avoid using the one in the screw head If it slips when tightening the wingnut
Neither use the washer here, otherwise it slips and it's harder tighten the nut with only one hand. Maybe the best choce here is a lock washer, but I have not tried it yet.
You can use a soldering iron to cram an 1/4 inch whitworth nut if you are planning to use a tripod.
The 608 holder is an adaptation of the Prusa i3 extruder idler. A piece of 8mm rod and press to click
Put the motor in place
Place the pulley, but don't tighten the bolts too much. You'll have to move it up or down later. You may have to remove the stepper again.
Screw for belt guides with double nut
Place the guides and two more nuts
MiniEngine
You can buy or make the miniEngine pcb. In http://www.minie.airiclenz.com/ you'll find all the info.
You can buy the easydriver on ebay for under $3
You'll also need 2x 8 pin Stackable Header and 2x 6 pin. Two 470ohm resistor, two 10~20k, and two 4n35 optocoupler
You can find a lot of info here:
http://www.minie.airiclenz.com/documentation/documentation-miniengine-1/
Solder easydriver pins
Solder the stackable header
Next the resistors and optocouplers
And finally the easydriver
You can also use a sink, but I do not know if it is really needed. Here you can see the first board made (soldering the EasyDriver wrong :he: ) I used those green connectors for limit switches and the stepper
In this version, the wires are soldered directly and coming out from underneath the plate, thus the housing can be smaller
Put your shield onto the arduino headers
Now the LCD Keypad Shield
Use screws if you think it needs them to make it stronger
"Legs"
Four 8x50 screws, the printed parts you see in the image and the bearing in the middle.
Run the wires through the hole
Solder the limit switches
..and put them in place with two screws. The holes of these Switches were 2.5mm, if like me you can't find m2.5 screws, you can make a 3mm drill and use m3 screws
Use the small "casquillos" (sorry, I don't know how to call them in english) to attach the electronics to the plate
4 more screws through the holes around the LCD. leaving some slack to tighten the nuts to make it easier to place the housing
Turn the housing ang place the buttons in the holes
Put the electronics
Check the wires are ok
And four more nuts and washers
Tighten the screw to hold the ball head (Withwhorth 3/8")
Tright the ball head. Manfrotto 492 in this case.
Solder the 2.5mm jack, N3 or whatever we have to connect our camera
Open the safety plates
Put it onto the rails and close them again
The belt
Pull the belt and tighten the wing nut
Enjoy your Canedolly!